Rock Creek Ranch in Montana Turns a Ski Trip into a Western Winter Escape

Ski vacations often turn into opportunities to try something new, even something unrelated to skiing (gasp!).

Earlier this year, I took to the mountains at a Montana guest ranch to get my cowboy on and my powder runs in. Planning my ski trip, I hadn’t planned on trotting through ponderosa pines or yelling “Yee-haw!”.

Whether it’s backpacking on bumpy logging roads or ice fishing, there’s something meditative about watching the rod bob on the water.

Is that a bold statement? Winter escapades at the Ranch at Rock Creek are more than just ski trips.

Homesteaders feel like they’re in the middle of nowhere on 6,600 acres. Rather, this Relais & Châteaux property is located in ranch country, a region where people are few and far between, but cattle abound.

Missoula’s airport is 90 minutes away. Visitors drive past black cattle herds and hilly ranchlands coated in snow. Jackleg fencing goes on forever. You might see Kelly Clarkson’s ranch and know that the TV series Yellowstone was filmed just across the ridge.

Wranglers look after livestock and horses at Horse Creek Ranch, which has renovated historic barns and outbuildings into five-star accommodations. I blend Wild West flair with boutique hotel charm inside my log cabin.

This room has a log-frame canopy bed, a deep soaker tub with mountain views, and a marble shower with foot massage pebbles. Antler chandeliers and cowboy boots look perfectly at home alongside a Stagg pour-over kettle and Nespresso Vertuo in the living room.

It would have been great to have plaid shirts and cowboy boots. Getting a little country was in order.

I can walk 10 minutes to the Buckle Barn, where hearty breakfasts are served on white linen log tables. Mountains with grazing cattle and deer running into the forest. Even a big horn sheep looked baleful at me one morning, making me realize I shouldn’t bother with my camera.

After breakfast, fresh snow had me putting on my ski boots.

With the Ranch at Rock Creek all-inclusive package, you’ll get ski gear (new Rossignol boots and skis), lift tickets, and private transfers to nearby Discovery ski hill. “Disco” is a family-owned operation located on national forest land with three faces of runs and glades to explore.

This local secret has 2,000 acres and a vertical drop of 2,388 feet. Even the easy descents are long, leisurely, and scenic on the front side of the mountain. I happily blew through the boot deep powder, then settled into a slow, meditative chairlift to do it all over again.

Old-school charm abounds at Disco’s ski lodge. Whenever you need a refuel, visit the Ranch. Their speciality: scone-like chocolate chip cookies. Alpine barbecues are set up on Fridays at Rock Creek.

In my ski boots, I enjoyed champagne in a pretty mason jar, grilled chicken sandwiches with brioche buns, and hot chocolate with fancy tea. Snowy ice buckets chill wines.

Getting back on the slopes after a full belly was tough, but that was why I came. Or was it? Knowing the ranch’s winter activities, maybe it’s time to get back on horseback? How about ice fishing? Shooting skeets?

I was suddenly sitting astride Hank, a Belgian/Quarter horse cross, the following morning. Taking a horse into the countryside with three others, I followed a wrangler.

Over time, I learned to stay balanced while following Hank’s lead, as well as to take in the beauty of the icy creek and the family of deer fording it. Taking a ride through this picture-postcard landscape was a magical experience.

My first ice-fishing experience started later that day when I headed to Georgetown Lake with other first-timers. Diamonds glittered in the sunlight on the vast expanse of white. I spun in circles as we trudged to the tents, taking in the Pintler and Flint Creek mountains to the south and north.

When our guide explained that ice fishermen have to drill new holes every day in this protected forest, I got back to earth. After that, I had to keep an eye on my feet to avoid falling in yesterday’s unfrozen fishing hole.

No matter how cold it is, Rock Creek never compromises. Keeping warm, we did not forget to drill ice holes, set up camp chairs, prepare fishing rods and rig up an underwater camera to keep an eye on trout. A bait and wait. I waited. I jumped my line.

Jay von Heeder, my Montana-born guide, said not to jig too quickly. ‘Let it fight a bit, anglers want that.’ I wasn’t sure it was what I wanted, but I followed directions and posed gamely with my wet, wiggly, 17-inch rainbow trout. My mouth was watering as I slipped it back in.

A few minutes from the ranch, I went skiing in the morning, then went to Philipsburg for the afternoon. Besides sapphire mining, there is also an overstuffed antique store, bars, gem shops, cafes, an old-style candy store, and an antique shop where I bought a vintage Wrangler shirt.

Wearing it to Rock Creek’s Silver Dollar Saloon. Drink in hand, I sat on the saddle-seat bar stool. Maybe I looked silly. No problem. Fun was having.

Guest ranches offer all-inclusive experiences. Our main lodge provides traditional hotel rooms, glamping tents, and log cabins. Starter nightly rates of US$2,100 per person include fine dining, daily outdoor and indoor activities, and any equipment needed.

You can expect the Ranch to throw in extras too, like slopeside cookouts and sommelier-led tastings of $800-a-bottle wines from Napa, called Bond.